THURSDAY APRIL 15TH

We have a car rented for the next few days so headed to downtown Savannah for some sightseeing. The Savannah College of Art and Design has restored, and is preserving many of the buildings in the historic district.

General James Oglethorpe from England colonized Georgia. His idea was of a society where no individual could own much land and everyone worked for the betterment of the others. It sounded good, but countries like Russia can tell you this plan doesn’t work. He also had restrictions as to who could settle, such as no Catholics, (they may side with the Spanish who were also colonizing the east coast), no lawyers, (they stirred up too much trouble), no hard liquor, and they could not own slaves. (the reason being it made the owners lazy, not because he had any concern for the Africans)

He believed his dream failed and he ended up going back on each of his restrictions. Many colonists died from sickness and the colony needed laborers so he allowed Catholics to settle. At one point half of the population in Savannah was Irish. Today the St. Patrick’s Day parade is second only to New York’s in size.

The people stirred up so many problems on their own, that he had to allow lawyers to come to Georgia to settle the disputes.

And colonists purchased land of their own and brought it slaves to work it.

He did much good though. When he set up the design of the colony it was based around 4 squares, which were parks. Eventually there were 24 squares and 21 of them still remain. And the squares are breathtaking. Each square we wandered through we found many others enjoying them.

He also had a good relationship with the Indians and tried to nurture that relationship in the colonists.

Despite Oglethorpe’s distrust of Catholics, this beautiful church was eventually built and faces one the squares. It is St. John the Baptist church. It is open to the public so we went inside.





















Next to the church is this cemetery. The last burial in it was 1853. During the civil war Sherman’s troops broke off many of the stones and threw them in a pile to clear space to pitch tents.  So although it is known who all is buried there, they just don’t know where.

There were quite a few of these brick crypts. They are built in the shape of a bed to symbolize everlasting rest.  Entire families are buried in them, one on top another.











We ended the day down by the river. At one time the large brick buildings were warehouses storing goods to be shipped. With the collapse of the cotton industry all this was pretty much abandoned. The area has been restored and now houses shops, pubs and eating establishments.

The streets in this area are all made from the stones that were used as ballast in empty ships. The ships needed weight in the holds so used stones. When they arrived in port, they disposed of them on shore and filled their empty ship with goods.  Must have been a really rough ride in a carriage or even on a horse.














Okay, enough history for one day. Let’s go to the candy store!!!












Ross sampling a praline.



"Needs chocolate."


Wow, my kind of apples!!







The pink and white cigar shape on the wooden rollers is taffy.








Taffy being “pulled”.












Something for everyone, even if you’re a dog. These are Milkbones that they dip in a combination of peanut butter and white chocolate.







So many choices……..












Ended up leaving with a treat called “Gophers”. They were a combination of crushed pecans and caramel and then a swirl of dark chocolate spread on the top. Mmmmmmm.

For dinner we walked a couple of blocks to Tubby’s Tankhouse. Had a good meal and listened to a band.

WEDNESDAY APRIL 14TH

A quiet day. We moved the boat about 10 miles to Bahia Bleu Marina in Thunderbolt, Georgia. We will be leaving the boat here for 3 weeks while we return to Minnesota.

Just did mundane chores. One chore was to clean out the sea strainers. To cool the engines the water gets sucked in from outside and passes through these strainers.  Usually we just find sticks and lily pad gunk. Today Ross found all sorts of interesting tidbits. I wish I had a magnifying lens so we could have looked at it closer. This shrimp was the largest creature we found. I don’t think it was a pistol shrimp, unless he lost his pistol claw getting sucked in through the strainer.  There were also tiny minnows and worm like creatures. This is getting down to the low end of the food chain. Glad to see there is abundant life going on there.

TUESDAY APRIL 13TH

Peggy and Alan Hill showed up early to help us cast off.  With 89 miles to go today and timing the tides for 2 shallow spots, we needed to leaved early. Lucky for us, the dockmaster showed up just as we were leaving with the daily newspaper and 2 blueberry muffins they bring the boaters each morning!

The wind picked up steadily all day long. We had to cross several sounds and every square inch of the boat got a drenching of salt water.

Several times during the day we had to use range markers. They’re pretty easy to use when you are headed straight at them, but today we had to use them as we headed away from them. This meant I would watch from the stern of the boat and tell Ross which way he had to steer so the red and white patterns of the signs lined up. Sounds easier than it was, especially in the wind……and me giving directions!








We made it through the Mud River at high tide, which was our first concern. The second worrisome spot was Hell Gate. Scary name for a scary place.
 
The tide was starting to come in so if we got stuck on the bottom, we wouldn’t have to wait long for the water to rise enough that we could get off. None the less, we did not want to go aground. We had already heard radio chatter of another boat aground and waiting for the tide. The wind was blowing so hard that it was difficult to steer the boat where we knew it needed to go. We never touched bottom, but I was reading off the numbers of the depth finder to Ross and at one point it said one inch. Yikes!

We were relieved to arrive at the Isle of Hope marina for the night. I think I get the name now. You hope you make it to the marina.


Pizza delivery to the dock was on the menu for tonight!

MONDAY APRIL 12TH

A small convoy of 6 boats left before 7 a.m. as we had to navigate through some shallow waters and we were all trying to time it with the tides.  As we passed the end of Jekyll Island we spotted this PT 19 at the airstrip. The photo didn’t turn out the greatest. The PT stands for primary trainer. Many pilots who flew in WWII took their initial training in a plane like this. One of those guys was Ross’ dad, Jim. Not only did his dad go on to be a pilot of a B24 bomber during the war, he also later built a PT 19 and flew it. Along with many other planes he’s built over the years.

We only had a short way to go today but the fog rolled in just as we arrived at St. Simon Island.  Great!!

Made our way in safely and Ross got busy washing off the boat. Besides being coated with salt, there is yellow pollen everywhere. The locals tell us it is Live Oak and Pine pollen. It makes us sneeze and everything is covered with a layer of yellow. When it gets windy you can sometimes see little tornados of yellow.

With the boat bath out of the way, we went exploring on the bikes. It’s a complete different feel here compared to Jekyll. There are lots of tour buses, shops, tourists, eating establishments and homes.

There are also gigantic Azalea shrubs everywhere!! They range in color from peach to salmon to white to every shade of pink.

We toured the lighthouse museum, but the lighthouse is closed for renovations so we weren’t able to climb it.

When we returned to the marina we were pleased to find Peggy and Alan Hill of the Muriel June on the same dock. The last time we saw them was the morning we left Carrabelle, Florida to cross the Gulf of Mexico. They invited us to the their boat for an enjoyable visit, good wine and nummy appetizers.

SUNDAY APRIL 11TH

We spent a leisurely day biking around the area. There are wonder biking/walking trails so it is very easy to get around.

We headed back to the Historic District to look at some of the “cottages” a bit closer. On our way, we biked past these gators soaking up the sun just a few feet off the bike trail. We screeched to a halt on our bikes, as much as one can screech to a halt on a trail covered with crushed oyster shells. We slowly walked back and took a photo. Ross guessed the one was maybe 7 or 8 feet. The other one was too submerged to see much. Ross commented that gators always look like they’re smiling. Maybe about how you’d taste?  It was pretty creepy being so close to them. I wasn’t too worried though as there was a guy walking along the same trail just behind us. Ross and I figured if they came after us, all we had to do was bike faster than the guy walking!!! Just kidding.

We stopped at the Island History Center and viewed the exhibits. We then biked around the grounds.








This is a photo of the Sans Souci. It is the first condominium in the United States. There were 6 apartments in it. Only Jekyll Island Club members could purchase an apartment. There were restrictions though, no children and no mistresses!







This is a Red Bug. Introduced to the island back in 1910 it was an early type of dune buggy. It was a perfect way to get around the island on the sand and also the roads and trails of crushed oyster shell. It could reach a top speed of 25 m.p.h.

We ate lunch at the deli at the Clubhouse then biked back to the boat. (no Red Bug for us) The Masters golf tournament was on. It was the first time I have ever seen it. It was actually by accident as I was out back reading and Ross had left it on while he went inside to take a nap. It took place not too terribly far from where we are.

SATURDAY APRIL 10TH

We left St. Marys at dawn with the slack tide. This way we didn’t have to deal with a strong current trying to get off of the dock.

We are headed to Jekyll Island, which takes us past the King’s Bay Submarine Station. This sub station is over 25 square miles and is used as a training facility and is also home to the Trident class of nuclear subs along with the nuclear missiles they carry. If there is a sub coming in to the base, they close down this section of the river to boat traffic. It would have been so neat to see one, but it wasn’t to be. I’ve read that the subs make a huge wake so maybe it’s okay we didn’t’ see one.  You can see a small boat in the picture. It was patrolling back and forth across the entrance to the harbor.

We arrived before noon to the Jekyll Harbor Marina. We heard it is an excellent area for biking so we took off. These are some azaleas, which are blooming at the end of the dock. Sooooo beautiful.




We rode the bikes to the historic area of Jekyll Island. From 1886 until 1942, this island was a private kingdom for many of the nation’s elite. It was purchased by a group of millionaires who formed the very exclusive Jekyll Island Club. They restricted membership to keep it a closed social unit of only the elite.

There is a huge clubhouse, complete with croquet course, which was center focus. Members could stay in a room in the clubhouse when on the island.

Some of the members, which included folks like the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts and J.P. Morgan, built grandiose “cottages” around the clubhouse. These cottages are now museums you can wander through. Our plan is to return tomorrow and tour several.















There were also buildings that housed chauffeurs, housekeepers, groundskeepers and chefs. Of course they were all farther away from the clubhouse, but they had their own commissary, dining hall and eventually a school for the staff who brought along family.

Biking around the area, both Ross and I though it is one of the most beautiful places we have ever been! Ross summed it up by saying the beauty of it is “astounding!” The Live Oaks, Spanish moss and all the flowers, along with songbirds singing everywhere makes you understand why the “club” wanted to keep all of this to themselves. The sun was out as we biked and the warmth made the pines smell so fragrant.

There is a restaurant here at the marina so we decided to go up to it for supper. We weren’t all that hungry so decided on a bowl of Brunswick Stew. Any food we hear is a local food or traditional to the area, is something we always want to experience. We thought maybe it was a Brunswick, Georgia tradition. I checked it out on the internet when we returned to the boat. We were wrong.  Seems every state along the coast with a town called Brunswick claims to be the originating place of the stew. But according to historians, it was started in Brunswick County Virginia. The original recipe was stewed squirrel, butter, onions, stale bread and seasonings. This made a very hearty and thick concoction. Nowadays it is made with chicken or pork and vegetables are added. Large batches are made for church functions, fundraisers, reunions and political rallies. Some states even have “Stew Fest” on the capitol grounds. What we ate last night was more like soup than a "thick concoction". We will sample more Brunswick Stew as we move along up the coast and report back.