FRIDAY JULY 29TH, 2011


Ross changed oil on both engines and the generator this morning while I caught up on the blog. With those projects out of the way, we decided to take the rental car and go check out nearby Harbor Springs and Petoskey.

Our first stop, since we hadn’t eaten lunch yet, was the Polish Kitchen in Harbor Springs. I had read about it on the website Trip Advisor. It was most definitely authentic Polish food. I base that on my observation that everyone working there spoke Polish. Not that I know what Polish sounds like, but I know they weren’t speaking Chinese. Located in a little strip mall, the menu was written on a large chalkboard. No clue what most of it was. This was going to be fun! We ordered a combination platter and shared it. Many different tastes. The only thing we recognized was the stuffed cabbage roll and the kielbasa. We were glad we stopped here.

The town of Harbor Springs seems to be an upscale tourist town. Pretty beach area.





And a dog park.






Stopped at a roadside cherry stand on our way to Petoskey. According to the kid working the stand, cherry season is almost over. It generally runs from around the 4th of July to the first of August.  I’ve never been a big cherry fan, but I could eat these till I got a tummy ache.









Since being in Michigan we have seen many beautiful polished Petoskey stones. At one time warm seas covered this area. The Petoskey stones are the fossilized remains of coral reefs that glacial action deposited in this specific area. So 350 million years and a rock polisher later, they’re dangling from my ears.

THURSDAY JULY 28TH, 2011







First thing this morning I rode my bike down to the neighboring marina to take a photo of this sailboat. It is the WINGNUTS. A 35 foot sailboat that capsized last week in a sailing race from Chicago to Mackinac Island in which two people drowned. It capsized with 8 crew onboard about 12:30 a.m. during a storm with 64 mile per hour winds. They were wearing life jackets and tethered with safety harnesses to the boat. 6 of them were able to unhook their safety straps and be rescued. 7 other boats racing abandoned the race and came the rescue of WINGNUTS crew. The boat was lost sight of.

A few days ago Ross and I heard a radio conversation between a boat and the coast guard. It was very eerie to listen too. The boat had come upon a partially submerged sailboat with it’s sails still up and life jackets floating in it’s companionway. They were finally able to see it’s name and identify it as the missing WINGNUTS.



Ross lined up a rental car from a local place so we can explore inland for the next couple days. Our destination was Traverse City, Michigan to check out a film festival. The rental car had over 99,000 miles on it and was making some suspicious sounds but it did get us there and back.

Ross had researched the festival so knew we could park out at the university and then ride the shuttle bus. Worked out great. Buses ran every 10 minutes or so and you could get on at off at the various venue sites to watch films.





As we wandered along window shopping, we came upon these one of a kind dresses. This one made from popcorn boxes would have been the prefect dress for the film fest. And the cherry necklace is defintely in season right now.

















You could smuggle movie candy in with this one. Notice the pop bottle cap bodice. Wouldn’t you love to see someone wear these dresses at the Academy Awards?

















The film festival is very popular and tickets to many of the films sell out weeks in advance. They have standby lines for the no show tickets so we thought what the heck, and got in line. Things were looking good that we would get in, but the theatre filled just as they got to us.

We did get in to see two other films though before the day was done. It was a fun, interesting day. Good thing we love popcorn because I think we ate more today than we’ve ever eaten in our lives.

WEDNESDAY JULY 27TH, 2011


Today we explored Charlevoix. Yes, it’s a French name. So it is pronounced Shar-laa-voy.  Pretty sounding, isn’t it?



I think the flower box on the roof must be part of
a city beautification project.







It’s very touristy here so lots of activity and shops. My favorite part though is what is referred to as the mushroom houses. They look like something out of a fairy tale.






Earl Young began designing them around 1918. He used the glacial boulders of the area in all his works.









The curved, wavy roof line is typical of all the Earl Young homes.










As is the frosted stone cap chimneys.




















I suggest clicking on this one to enlarge the photo so you can take a close look at the garden.







We ate lunch here at the Weathervane restaurant. Originally it was a grist mill, but redesigned by Earl Young.






In the dining room is a fireplace with a 9000 pound boulder in the center of it. Located in the lower right hand corner of the hearth is a meteorite.


















This meteorite is iron and weighs as much as the center boulder in the fireplace.
















Stopped at another fish shop. This time they were cleaning the day’s catch in the back. Smelly job! Perhaps that’s the reason they are so fast? They want to get out of there.

















It’s a popular spot and the line to purchase fish was out the door. We stood in line and bought one of the few remaining containers left of the smoked whitefish pate.

TUESDAY JULY 26TH, 2011

The weather forecast was iffy in regards to wind and waves, but we decided to head out and and try it. It was wild at first and we both thought we should head back to Mackinaw City if it didn’t calm down. The waves were 4 to 6 feet and very close together. It is too hard on the boat to take such a pounding.

We noticed two kayaks and a small motor craft out in the lake. As we passed closer we could see someone in the water swimming. I imagine it was someone training and that was the safety crew. The water temp by the way was 68 degrees. I can think of better hobbies!

The waves and wind eventually calmed down but it was a long day as Ross had to reduce our speed to make the ride tolerable.

MONDAY JULY 25TH 2011

The weather is still holding and we have another beautiful day.

Today we decided to go explore Colonial Michilimackinac. It is the restored remains of the original fort that was moved out to Mackinac Island 1780.

It was originally built by the French in 1715 as a supply depot for fur traders. The French had a great working relationship with the Indians as they understood the Indian culture, respected it and worked within it. During the spring and summer months, supplies and trade goods would arrive at the fort. Then in the fall and winter, the traders would go out to the Indian villages and trade for furs. The French always gave a gift of some sort before trading would start. It was the Indian way.

After the French and Indian war the British took over the fort, along with the French territory of Canada. The British still operated the fort, but as a trading post rather than a supply depot. No more going out to the villages. The Indians were expected to come to the fort. And no more gifts first! It was the king’s way or the highway.

This didn’t sit well with the locals. There were large numbers of Indians at the fort to trade, and they would daily play Lacrosse outside of the fort. One day the ball just  happened to enter the fort through the gate. The soldiers didn’t think too much of it as the men kept chasing the ball and seemed to continue the game. Too late, the British had been duped. The Indians killed quite a few soldiers and captured the officers. The fur industry was a huge part of the British economy at this point so the British conceded and they went back to playing by the Indians’ rules.

The fort is still in the process of being restored. This is one of the excavations at present. Like I said earlier, most of the structures were taken apart, hauled to Mackinaw Island and reassembled. But the stone foundations and chimneys remained to give a good indication where things were. Before leaving the fort for good, the soldiers burned what ever was left so the Americans couldn’t use it.



One thing that didn’t burn completely was the powder magazine. All the gun powder had been removed but the magazine was reinforced with heavy earth on the top of it. As the timbers supporting the walls and roof burned, the weight of the earth collapsed the roof and smothered the fire beneath preserving the charred remains of the floor and timbers.



The soil in the fort?  Well its not. It is like sand at the beach. What little vegetation grew would have been trampled by people walking around. You drop a coin, a ring or anything at the beach and its gone. Hundreds of items have been sifted from the sand so far. Everything from buttons to coins to thimbles to squiggly silvery things. For the life of me I couldn’t imagine what those grey worm shaped things were. Turns out they were lead pencils. Never would have guessed that.

It is a living history museum so you can watch how things would have been done back in that era. We watched as this lady cooked a blueberry cake in a dutch oven. She arranged hot coals in the fireplace and then covered them with a think layer of ash for insulation. Next she nestled the greased pot in the ashes and then poured the batter in. Put the lid on and added coals on top and covered the coals with ash.



Ross asked how she knew it was done. She said she looks when she thinks it’d done. Makes sense. But since she told us only the men had timepieces, how would she know when to check it. I mean what on Earth could the men be doing that required more accurate timing than baking? She pointed to the wide planks on the floor and told me she didn’t need a timepiece.  She had started to cook it when the light shone on one plank and knew to check it when the light was on another plank. The perfect sundial, and way more accurate than any timepiece they had. Women are so clever!








Oh, by the way.
The blueberry cake was great.















Enough history. We peddled our trusty, although now rusty, bikes back to the boat. We made one stop along the way at Bell’s Fishery to buy some smoked salmon.

SUNDAY JULY 24TH, 2011

Moved from Mackinac Island a short distance to Mackinaw City on the mainland. Just hung out all day at the boat.


This a map of most of our trip this leg so far. It is a bit fuzzy I'm afraid. Seems my little camera that has served me so well is going kaput.


SATURDAY JULY 23RD, 2011


Started the day with breakfast up town. Ross had pancakes with this groovy peace sign stamped in them. 













Today we explored Mackinac Island, beginning with the fort. It was built by the British during the Revolutionary War and was originally at Mackinaw City, on the mainland of Michigan. Believing it vulnerable to attack by the Americans, they dismantled the fort and moved it piece by piece out to Mackinac Island and reassembled it over the course of 2 years. Americans took control of it after the war, but lost control in 1812 when the British snuck up from the other side of the island. Oops. The 60 American soldiers were seriously outnumbered so they instantly surrendered. That was the start of the War of 1812.

The white rectangular building with the pointed roof on the left is the West Blockhouse, built in 1798. The small rectangular openings in the walls enabled soldiers to view out at the surroundings. You can easily see the view of Lake Huron they had from here.




The view out of one of the blockhouse view holes.

















This is the McGulpin House. When the fort moved out to the island, the people at their own expense, had to move their belongings if they wanted to stay near the safety of the fort. This is one of those houses. They took it all apart and most likely dragged it across the ice in the wintertime and then reassembled it. I wonder what they lived in while that process was happening.







In this photo you can see how the logs were cut to fit together like Lincoln Logs. Each one was specifically cut to fit into the next. If you look close in the center of the photo toward the bottom, you can see 5 hash marks cut in the log. This was some sort of code so they knew which log fit where when they put the house back together. Despite most likely being illiterate, they had a language of their own figured out.












This is what I thought was the most interesting place in Mackinac, only because of the history connected with it. I remember learning about it in grade school. This is the American Fur Company Store. One day back in 1822 a young French Canadian trader named Alexis St. Martin was in the store. Someone’s gun misfired and this kid ended up with a fist size hole in his side and stomach. A Dr. Beaumont treated him. St. Martin’s wound healed, but not completely. There was an opening from his stomach to the outside. Remember this story? Dr. Beaumont started to try digestion experiments. He would attach bits of various foods to silk thread and then deposit them St. Martin’s stomach through the opening. Much of what we know today about the digestion process came from Dr. Beaumont’s findings.

That’s all well and good, but it appears Alexis was not a willing partner in the experiment. Dr. Beaumont seemingly took advantage of the illiterate St. Martin by getting him to sign a contract to work as the Dr.’s servant. Some of the experiments were painful for Alexis. Dr. Beaumont published his findings in 1838, became famous and moved to St. Louis. He wanted Alexis to go with him but he went home to family in Quebec. Smart move on his part. Anyway, 20 years after that Dr. Beaumont died from injuries related to a slip and fall on ice-covered stairs. Alexis St. Martin lived to be 83 years old. When he died, his family delayed the burial of the body till it began to decompose. Sound gross but they did this to prevent doctors from performing an autopsy. Plus the Army wanted St. Martin’s stomach for study at an Army base.

On to happier thoughts. We walked up The Grand Hotel, Mackinac Island prestigious place to stay. Its so fancy that they stop you and make you purchase a $10 ticket to even walk on the property if you aren’t a registered guest. (it was $7, inflation I guess)

It was built in 1887 as a summer retreat for the wealthy tourists who came here to vacation. There was a lack of “proper” accommodations here. So the transportation companies financed a hotel. A crew of 300 carpenters built the hotel in 4 months. The opening of The Grand forever changed the face of tourism on the island.

When the hotel first opened, the rooms were priced from $3 to $5 per night. Today on the weekend the rate for a deluxe, lake facing room will set you back a mere $728 dollars plus 21.5% tax. A small, lake-facing room is $600 a night, plus tax. But hey, there’s no tipping allowed.

If you don’t like horses, or their smell, don’t come to Mackinac Island. They are everywhere. So I'm loving it! 
These guys are draft type horses. Placid, very strong and dependable. They would be the tractors around here.

 These two appear to be sleeping on the job.




These are carriage horses. I believe them to be a breed developed in England called Hackney. It began as a cross between a trotter and the Arabian. The breed is elegant looking with a very showy high stepping trot. Bred to trot at high speeds for long periods of time they make the perfect carriage horse. This group would be considered the limousine around here.

And none of them wear biscuit bags. There is a small army of guys peddling around on bikes with a container, broom and shovel in the back. I guess it’s a job. But as Ross commented,  “ya, but it’s a horse sh*#% job!”








We toured a blacksmith shop. There are many different types of horseshoes. Some are even corrective shoes. The one in the center of this picture would be used in the winter. The pointing things would face away from the hoof and give the horse traction in snow and ice.









This is a thick, black polymer of some type. It is nailed on over the steel horseshoe. They sure do have large feet!

This is what it looks like on the horse’s hoof. It works to not only to keep the metal shoe from digging up the pavement, but works like a tennis shoe for the horse. Walking on pavement is very hard on horses’ hooves and also jarring to their joints. This black rubber cover cushions the horses’ step. They have to have them removed every 3 to 6 weeks, depending on wear. A farrier will trim the hooves and then put the steel shoe and rubber shoe back on.