THURSDAY AUGUST 5TH


 
Mark in the galley cooking us up a fabulous breakfast of French toast and corn beef hash. The day is getting off to a great start!

















It was a short 12 mile jaunt to Tilghman Island. They guys rinsed the salt off the boat while Deone and I checked out the facilities. Laundry and the pool was decided to be on the agenda. It’s another hot and very humid day. Strong storms are predicted so we wanted to be in early and battened down. It turned out to be a good decision.














We walked into the town, which was a café, post office and bank. Tilghman is a sleepy little community inhabited mostly by watermen and city dwellers that come here on the weekends to escape the craziness of the city.

We stopped at an honor system produce wagon. (need more tomatoes for BLT’s) Here we met “Big Jim” who was on a tomato-shopping mission for his wife. He is a retired college professor and now professional photographer. We ended up having a great conversation with him and learned much about the area, plus a recommendation for dinner.








After another lunch of BLT’s (and we still aren’t sick of them) we got the bright idea to try crabbing!!! I’m sure we were supposed to have a license, but we looked at it like a “free trial”. Using a bent paper clip on a string, tied to a long string with a weight on it for a sinker, we stuck some raw chicken on the end of the paper clip and went crabbing.














The crab will grab on the bait and hang on while you lift them up. The first one hung on till we dropped it in the pail. Then Mark caught two whoppers but they dropped off, shortly after he started to raise them out of the water.  Earlier in the day we watched watermen crabbing with a trotline. They dragged a line with baits attached (probably not by paperclip though) and one guy reels it in. The other guy scoops them with a net.We needed a net!

So one boat hook, a colander and a couple of zip ties later, we had a net.


















It was getting really hot on the dock, so we put the crabbing on hold and we all went to the pool for a dip.













 But NO DIVING!!!



















Mark modeling his "Revolution" shirt.



















The sky turned black and thunder started rumbling so we headed back to the boat. Not long after, the storm arrived with a fury. 70 mph plus winds hit and torrential rain. We couldn’t even see the shoreline, and it wasn’t very far away. It was good to be tied up secure.



After the storm passed, we called the Tilghman Island Inn and asked if they would be willing to pick us up for dinner. This was the restaurant Big Jim suggested to us earlier in the day. I don’t think they have ever been asked to pick up customers, but they said yes. Our ride arrived, and it wasn’t Sober Cab if you get my drift. The island is small with winding roads so the drive is such that it’s slow.




The Inn was an excellent place to dine. And the view was over the Knapp Narrows between the Choptank River and the Chesapeake Bay. We lucked out and the sky cleared enough that we saw the sunset.

Shortly after sunset though it poured again for about half an hour and we could see it pouring off the roof.



We had a very good meal here!! Deone had crabcakes. Each the size of a large biscuit.








Mark had softshell crab.

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 4TH



Today we traveled from Solomon’s to Oxford, Maryland.

Mark drove the boat while Deone rode shotgun and wound floss for her Swedish weaving.

























Ross kept busy reading the Waterway Guide so he was informed on Marinas, hazards, and the local scoop on our next stop.










As we arrived in Oxford, we could see a sailing school in progress. Boating, especially sailing, is a way of life for the people on the Chesapeake. There is a child in each of these sail boats and the person in the gray inflatable dinghy is the teacher, instructing through a bull horn.


After another yummy lunch of BLT’s we hopped in the dinghy and headed to shore.











The Oddysea is anchored in the background where we will spend the night.













Once on shore we walked around the town. Beautiful homes and gardens.









Many of the homes had picket fences. From old photographs it is know that the picket fences were around back in the mid 1800’s. We saw many variations of the fences, known as an onion dome with a center hole.




The shape of fence is a style that had been popular in Russia, India and Middle East for centuries. So it's possible an early seafarer brought the first fence to Oxford.
The fences seem to be a symbol of the town and sections are painted with graphics or used as signs.









Anchored for the night.

TUESDAY AUGUST 3RD


A nice relaxing morning. We have decided to stay an extra day at Solomon’s.

Midmorning we rode the bikes to the Calvert Marine Museum.









On display is the Drum Point Lighthouse. It was hauled here from Drum Point and restored.

The lightkeeper and his family of 5 were the last ones to live here. It was actually fairly spacious, but 5 kids!!! And the kids were only allowed on one of the 4 levels. The family was given an acre of land on shore where they gardened and had chickens. And let the kids run around.










Besides keeping the light lit, the keeper had to signal ships in foggy weather. This meant hand winding this weight every two hours, which was conveniently located outside his bedroom, so it would cause a striker upstairs to hit a bell two blows every 15 seconds. Bet no one got much sleep on those nights.






















The adjoining maritime museum was interesting.






Think you can eat half a dozen oysters on the half shell of these?















They had a good display on tobacco. It was a labor intensive crop involving hand weeding.


This is a hogshead. It was a barrel with strict size regulations because shipping costs and selling costs were by the barrel. They used a press, called a tobacco prize, to pack the dried tobacco into the Hogshead. The Hogshead could easily hold an acre of dried tobacco. Or about 800 to 1600 pounds of product.













Dried tobacco leaves.
















We have toured many replicas of sailing vessels and I often wonder where the kitchen was. I’m thinking this was it. Called a Camboose. A handcut square of sandstone which the cook would set in a bed of sand inside a box. He would make a fire inside of it, place a grate over the top and set the cook pot on top. Pretty ingenious.













Riding the bikes around we saw many fire hydrants. Each painted differently. This was my favorite. Painted like an old style diving suit.

MONDAY AUGUST 2ND


The guys returned the rental car while Deone and I borrowed the marina courtesy car and went re-provisioning. We bought bacon, lots of bacon.






We made a stop at this produce market.

By the time we left we had watermelon, sweet corn (bad), peaches (to die for!!) tomatoes, and melons. BLT’s are on the menu about 5 days this week.




Ross fired up the engines and we headed out. We passed this lighthouse along the way. It is the Smith Point lighthouse and was auctioned off for $170,000 to a man from Winona, Minnesota.Notice the rectangular shaped structure on the right side. That's the privy!

61 miles later we arrived at Solomon’s Island.



The marina had bikes you could borrow so we all headed out to explore our surroundings.





Decided to make a stop at The Tiki Bar.


Really bad Mai Tai’s.
















This is why we don’t let Mark Ward drive out boat anymore!!!












Just kidding.





Met Joe Pica. A gold Looper from Pensacola, Florida. His boat is the Carolyn Ann. He was familiar with Solomon’s and gave us some good info.













Had an absolutely fabulous dinner at CD’s Café. Small place with a unique menu. Ross and I thought it was the best meal so far on the Loop.

SUNDAY AUGUST 1ST



Another day of mystery sightseeing!!

First off we headed to the Fredericksburg Battlefield. The National Park Service does an incredible job with preserving and educating the public about these treasures. We joined a Ranger tour and our guide was a history teacher. Great speaker! We thought it was funny that he made a comment of loving to share his knowledge with people who actually wanted to listen. I think he said he was a middle school teacher.

He described the two guys in charge at this particular battle. Confederate General Robert E. Lee, who was 2nd from the top of his class at West Point. And Union General Ambrose Burnside.

Burnside never wanted the job, but did it anyway. Probably shouldn’t have though. A few facts about Burnside; second to the bottom of his class at West Point, loved cards but was a very poor gambler, had a business that failed, and he was left at the altar by a bride who ran out of the church screaming! I'm not making this up. The Ranger told us this. Maybe it was the first time she saw him and his facial hairdo!! Anyway, the guy had bad mojo and took many poor risks at the expense of the Union soldiers. Here at Fredericksburg the Confederates described it as a slaughter. It was the most one-sided battle of the war.









Lee had his army all along the sunken road. It had been a main road and compacted down over the years. This is the actual sunken road and the stonewall next to it.














From this angle you better understand the protection it afforded the South. The South only had 9 cannon, while the North had 150. Problem was, Burnside sent the soldiers over to fight and the cannon were still on the other side of the river.

He sent regiment after regiment marching towards this sunken road and the artillery above. A regiment of men was usually all from the same town or county. Many were related, so it really hit home when it was wiped out. Burnside kept sending regiment after regiment until it got dark. 

This man was Sergeant Richard Kirkland with the 2nd South Carolina. When the fighting ended the first day he could hear wounded Union soldiers lying out on the battlefield begging for water and help. He risked his life by climbing out of the protection of the sunken road and giving them water and putting their packs under their heads. At first other Union soldiers shot at him until they realized what he was doing. When the shooting stopped, other Confederate soldiers climbed out of the sunken road and also tended the wounded. Richard Kirkland was known as The Angel of Marye’s Heights. He was eventually killed at the Battle of Chickamauga.

After the 5-day battle, it is estimated Lee lost around 4600 men. Burnside suffered the loss of around 13,000 men.

The Fredericksburg National Cemetery adjoins the battlefield. Of the 15,300 men here, the identities of fewer than 3,000 are known.








Many of the soldiers were buried together. This marker indicates that 5 men are buried at marker 2218.






Next stop, Chancellorsville.  It was a beautiful day so we ate a picnic lunch before joining up with a Ranger talk and learning about the battle here.  By the time this battle happen, General Joseph Hooker had replaced Burnside. He was a little better than Burnside but was described as mostly interested in his own self-interests. He made some bonehead decisions and more Union soldiers were slaughtered. It’s amazing the North ever won the war.

A major war-altering event that happened here was the death of Stonewall Jackson. He was a quirky, hypochondriac who constantly ate lemons. But he was a military genius. He was out on a night reconnaissance mission and his own men mistakenly shot him. He was taken to a nearby field hospital where his arm was amputated. His troops loved him and took his arm to a nearby estate and buried the arm in a family cemetery.

The arm is still buried there. I asked a Ranger, because I couldn’t believe it was still there. Or that they didn’t take it and bury it along with Jackson in Lexington since he died shortly after the amputation. Evidently Mrs. Jackson was asked about it, but since the arm had received a Christian burial she said to leave it in the little cemetery. The marker was placed there by a soldier who was with Jackson the night he was shot.

We took a driving tour of the remaining Chancellorsville area. Mark would drive to the numbered points on our map, and Ross would read aloud the info on the guide.









We got out at this site and walked it. In one of the cannons we discovered this bluebird nest.

From here we drove to Deltaville and the Oddysea.