THURSDAY JULY 8TH



A hair cooler out this morning so we took a nice walk. The grounds at the resort part of the marina are beautiful. Lots of curving sidewalks and landscaping. We walked part of the way to the small town of Irvington.

As we were leaving the marina, we noticed this PT 19 flying around. This type of Primary Trainer is what Ross’ dad would have learned to fly in when he joined the Air Force during WWII. We got to thinking, there can’t be that many of those planes flying around. So we looked back through the blog to find the picture of the last PT 19 we saw. Sure enough! #23 was the plane we saw at airstrip back on Jeykll Island.








It was a short 10 miles today back down the Rappahannock to Deltaville, where the river meets the Chesapeake Bay.  We’ll leave the boat here for the next 3 weeks while we return home.

Saw this beautiful sailboat today.

The day was steamy hot. But a small rain shower came through and made it bearable enough to actually sit out on our back deck. The heat has kept us trapped inside the cabin so it was a treat to be able to sit out back.

A local restaurant sent a car to pick us up for dinner. The place was called “Tobys” and you would never find it by yourself. A bit off the beaten path.

The gal working in the marina office told us Toby’s made something called Tomato Pie that they were famous for in the area. Well we had to check that out.

The tomato pie is a meal in itself, even if they tell you it’s an appetizer and too small to share. It was ripe tomatoes, some spices, piecrust and various cheeses. Rich and delicious! There had to be at least a days worth of calcium (and calories) in the cheeses.

Ross and I were the only 2 customers in the non-smoking section of the restaurant.
The bar and smoking section was busy though. We are in Virginia after all. Tobacco is king!

WEDNESDAY JULY 7TH

After 4 nights at York Yacht Haven, we headed out early in hope of avoiding the hottest part of the day. We have certainly hit the extremes of weather traveling the Loop. Last winter it was record cold in the south and now we are hitting record heat.

A waterman at sunrise.

Early in the day the water was very calm and we could see huge balls of small fish in the water. They were thick at the surface and some of the balls were as big as maybe 150' across. Most were maybe 30 to 50’ across. We found out later that they are Menhaden. Those are the oily fish that are so helpful in filtering the water. Virginia is the only state on the East Coast that still allows the industrial harvesting of menhaden, conducted by a fleet of boats and airplanes that help spot great schools of the fish in coastal waters. It’s a very lucrative business so strong lobbying against controls. The fish is too oily to eat so it’s made in to pet food and Omega-3 vitamins. It’s definitely a hot debate out here.

Passed close to this lighthouse. It’s the Wolf Trap York Spit Lighthouse. Must be a good fishing spot from the looks of the nearby boats. Sad to see its broken out windows and boarded up windows and doors.

The first lighthouse was built here in 1870, but in 1893 it was carried away by ice and found floating about a mile away. The light keeper escaped just before the ice tore the lighthouse away. He made his way across the ice to a nearby tugboat locked in the frozen bay.

The lighthouse was replaced and this one was sold in 2005 for $75,000. The guy had plans to turn it into a bed and breakfast. Didn’t happen and has been sold twice since. Looks pretty tough.

The breeze picked up but it felt like a furnace blast.

We spent the night at the Tides Inn at Irvington, Virginia. The water in their pool was actually cool, so that’s were we spent the remainder of the day. It’s been hot for so may days in a row, that most pools feel like bathwater.

TUESDAY JULY 6TH

HOT, HOT, HOT!!!

Spent the day doing laundry and boat chores.

The water in the marina is filled with jellyfish. And they get sucked into our sea strainers along with sea grass. So every other day we have to clean them. Envision squishing really fishy smelly jello through a screen door and then having to clean it off. Yep, really gross.

And I won’t even bore you with a history lesson today.

MONDAY JULY 5TH

Our new dock friends, Gayle & Bob from Sea Buff, gave us a ride to the Victory Center in Yorktown. From there we boarded the Historic Triangle Shuttle bus, which took us to Colonial Williamsburg.

Colonial Williamsburg has been preserved for all us to enjoy because of people like the Rockefellers. At one point, they fought to keep a freeway from being built right through it. The freeway is there, but it is an underground tunnel. Score one for the 18th century!

The historical interpreters all stay in character and did an excellent job. We started the day by touring the Capitol. The court met her several times a year. The judges were the same exact people as the burgesses. And the burgesses were English aristocracy who passed their position along in the family. Whether they were qualified or not. The whole set up was ripe with corruption!








Quite a number of historical characters showed up on the street and spoke. Starting with Lafayette. The French general who came to our aid, despite his government’s disapproval in the beginning. He believed in the cause of freedom. It is doubtful we could have won our freedom without the French. Of course over the past several hundred years the French have been at war with English more than not. So why miss out on a good fight?

Here’s a short video clip of Lafayette.


We stopped in and checked out the apothecary. All medicines and herbs MUST be imported from England, and paid a tax on. And this shopkeeper informed us he only takes gold and silver for payment. No chickens!!!









Lady Martha Washington made an appearance and spoke to the crowd. Check out the layers of clothing they wore, and gloves!
















This is the print shop from the mid 1700’s. Everything in it was required to be purchased from England, and taxed! The printer would set the individual metal letters in the print frame and then pound the ink on them for each copy. The ink is made of turpentine and very fine soot, also purchased from England.

He would lay a sheet of paper on top the inked letters, slide it in this printing press and pull on a lever that would press the paper down on the letters.

It was the printer’s apprentice that would be given the fun job of cleaning all the little letters and putting them back in the appropriate bin.  Although the printer did suggest to us, it was preferable to being the soot maker’s apprentice!











Next door was the bookbinder. About 8 folded pages at a time are lined up along the vertical cords. A long silk thread from the coil at the left was hand stitched across. Then another 8 pages added until all pages in the book are sewn through with one continuous silk thread.  Oh, and of course all his supplies had to come from England. Are you seeing a pattern here?






This drawing was done by Ben Franklin and published in his Pennsylvania Gazette. It is thought to be the first political cartoon. He drew it so even if someone could not read, they would understand what the object was. At this time there was a superstition that a snake cut in pieces would come back to life if the pieces were put together before sunset.


Grabbed a sandwich at this vine-covered restaurant. The shade felt good.












George Washington showed up and informed all of us that he would not be seeking another term. He also spoke about his hopes for the future. He spoke to many points of the Constitution he was concerned would be abused. The crowd listening was much in agreement. There was a lot of clapping and shouting, especially when he spoke about the dangers of letting government get too big and have too much power. Even though the crowd knew it wasn’t really President Washington, hearing his words spoken was moving!

I was curious about Washington so read more about him on the Internet. I love early American history (in case you haven’t figured that out) I could go on and on about his military background and such, but won’t. Instead I’ll tell you about his teeth, or lack of.

He was 6 feet 2 inches tall, compared with John Adams at 5’7” or Ben Franklin at 5’9”. So an imposing man. In his younger days he survived smallpox, malaria, dengue fever and the flu. Besides blood letting as a treatment for pretty much every ailment (I wonder who thought up that dumb idea, Dr. Dracula??) another treatment was a powder called mercurous chloride. Something now known to damage teeth. He did brush his teeth. Even had a sterling silver toothbrush. At the time, they had powder dentifrices. But he suffered much pain and eventually bone loss of his jaw.

He never had wooden dentures! But he did have sets made of carved hippo horn and elephant tusk. The uppers and lowers were connected with a gold spring. Doesn’t sound very comfy.

We toured the Wetherburn Tavern. It is restored to what it would have looked like after its expansion in 1751. The price of room and board to the public was a set price in all taverns. They made their money by renting out private meeting space and having a better cook than the other taverns.

Women didn’t sleep at the taverns. But they would put 3 or 4 men in a bed! And the beds are maybe double size. They slept in their clothing but removed shoes and socks. Chamber pot under each bed. No thanks!

Not to worry, they aired out the sheets each day and washed them once a month!! I'm itchy just thinking about it.











The kitchen wasn’t connected to the Tavern. Kitchens were in separate buildings so in the event of fire, it was only the one building. I thought this was a clever invention. I forget what it was called, but the weight is connected to a pulley and that in turn rotates the meat over the fire.












The smokehouse with meats hanging from the rafters. I wonder if vermin were a problem? I forgot to ask. Salting and smoking was the best way they had for preserving meat.








Our final stop was the Governors Palace. Until the Revolutionary War, the Governor was always an Englishman appointed by the King. He was the law here. The local rabble was unfit to govern themselves after all.










The palace was beautiful. The entry way and all along the hallway and up the staircase, these weapons are displayed. They were displayed rather than stored in a magazine; the premise was to show how much power they had.




 Close up of a flintlock.




















There were exquisite marble carvings on the fireplaces.










We would have loved to have had more time and been able to see more. I think you could easily spend several days here. Coming back here is definitely on our “to do list”.  But we had a shuttle bus to catch back to Yorktown.

SUNDAY JULY 4TH

HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY!!!

Yesterday, not far from here, we toured where the seeds of America were first planted. Fast forward to the Revolutionary War. Today we celebrated Independence Day in the town where the final battle was fought and Cornwallis surrendered to General Washington. Lots of red, white and blue going on here today!!!

We started at the Yorktown Victory Center. Many costumed historical interpreters explaining things.

This woman talked about what it was like to be a woman following the troops. Some were hired to help. There were only two job requirements to be hired. One you weren’t a thief and two you weren’t a drunk!




The soldier’s ration, when they had it, was 1 pound of bread per day (which they often got as a 6 pound round loaf), 1 pound of butter or cheese per week, some molasses and dried beans. Cripes, I could eat that in a day.






The doctor was very interesting with his talk about what was known at the time. They could perform surgeries such as to remove kidney stones, appendix, gall bladders, etc. It was a last resort and they had very little time to perform the procedure once started. 60% of the patients died. And there wasn’t any type of anesthesia yet.

They didn’t know about germs or virus, but they did understand contagion and that disease spread. They could make inoculations for smallpox from the pus from someone recovering from the disease. People would be contagious for 35 to 40 days after receiving the inoculation so would often gather family and friends and have an “inoculation party”. The doctor would take a needle and thread, run it through the serum and then through the surface of the person's skin. All would suffer a mild case of the disease, but during the quarantine would visit, play games and enjoy one another's company.

This Colonial soldier is leaning against a gabion. It was woven together with saplings and filled with dirt. The soldiers could take defensive positions behind them, along with earthworks.

















A mortar was used to lob a shell in. Often these were cannon balls that were hollow, then filled with gunpowder and a timed fuse. It would cause great destruction.

The Victory Center was a great stop and we totally enjoyed it.

There is a trolley that runs through out Yorktown so we took it downtown were we grabbed some lunch.












The beach as we walked along the boardwalk. There was a steady stream of people coming into town all day, along with coolers and picnic baskets. Later in the day is a parade with drums and fifes, Navy bands and such, followed by fireworks. It must have been a very hot wait!

Ross and I did something crazy…..segway tour of Yorktown!

Roscoe did okay from the get go, but I was going every which way trying to balance and direct the thing. It was nerve wracking with so many people waking around. The people of Yortktown have no idea how lucky they are that they escaped! But by the end of the 90-minute tour, I felt like a pro.

We rode up to the actual battle site, where the earthworks are still visible. Washington had the British surrounded and along with the French, they hammered them until the British were out of supplies. The British reinforcements arrived to late to be of any help. The Spanish and Portuguese also helped in a way as part of the British Navy was over there dealing with them.

Some friends we made at the marina came over to Yorktown and returned us to the marina. They have been very graciously driving us around.

Watched the Yorktown fireworks from the back of the boat.

SATURDAY JULY 3RD


With the top down and the GPS plugged in, it was off to Historic Jamestowne.




It was a gorgeous day out and the beauty of the drive surprised us. It wasn’t on a freeway but through a hardwood forest.



A little back story on Jamestowne, in case you forget what we learned back in grade school.

Jamestowne was the beginning of the America we know today. The colonists didn’t come because of religious persecution. They came for one reason only, money! A group of London investors funded the colony. 104 men and boys came to build a settlement and send the “riches” of the country back to England.

That was in 1607. Big problems off the bat. Got the crop in too late so not much to eat that winter. And of the 104 men, most were “gentlemen” and their menservants! Whoever picked this crew was an idiot. Most of these men didn't know which end of a shovel to even put in the ground. Add to that, Jamestowne was located on a marshy island with no fresh water. By the following spring dysentery, typhoid, malaria and accidents had claimed many of the settlers’ lives. Only 38 were left.

John Smith did make friends with the local Indian chief, who was the leader of around 14,000 Indians in Virginia, and they traded. By the way, despite what we may have learned about John Smith and Pocahontas in grade school, it isn’t true! She would only have been about 10 years old at the time. John Smith was known as a braggart and exaggerated things. He didn’t write about the Pocahontas story until he was back in London for years. Oh, and she wasn’t the only beautiful woman he wrote about in his travels to have saved him. He was a very good leader though.

In 1609 his bag of gunpowder that he carried exploded and he returned to London for treatment, never to return. The ship that took him had brought close to 500 settlers to Jamestowne. The man who replaced John Smith as leader was bad news. He committed atrocities on the locals and they responded by killing anyone that left the fort.

Spring of 1610 found only 60 of the 500 still alive!!! Many starved and there were reports of cannibalism.

The story gets better at this point. Spring also brought more settlers that had shipwrecked in Bermuda for the winter. (lucky for them) One of the settlers was John Rolfe, who eventually married Pocahontas and her dad (the chief) vowed to leave the English alone. John Rolfe arrived though with something special, Caribbean tobacco seeds! Jamestowne was on its way!






Now that I’ve bored you with the history lesson, here’s the actual site where it happened. There is a great deal of excavating going on at present because they didn’t find the fort walls until the late ‘90’s. After the settlement was abandoned, luckily it became a farm. So only the top 6 to 8 inches was ever disturbed.





The original fort would have looked like this.















The first buildings constructed would have been barracks or some type of shelter. They would have looked like this, and covered with a mud mixture which dried hard. And the roof would have been bundles of marsh grasses tied together.



They have a museum full of artifacts that have been found. Many of them were found in the two wells. Once a well went dry, or bad, they used it as a garbage dump. They threw in old armor, knives, garbage, you name it.





From Historic Jamestowne, we went to The Jamestown Settlement. It has a museum also, but it a living history museum of what life must have been like.







This building shows how later structures were built. They would cover all of this with mud. When it rained, all those bundles of marsh grass would swell up with water and make the roof waterproof.









These are the types of huts the local Indians lived in. They took green saplings and bent them, then covered them with mats of woven marsh grass. Our tour guide told us that these huts have withstood hurricanes! The mats needed replacing, but he structures stood.



Here’s what it looked like inside.


Okay, I think I’ve bored all of you enough for one day.

Enjoy your air conditioning, indoor plumbing, clean sheets and nearby grocery stores! And bug spray!